Rediscovering the Joys of Traveling: My trip to Southern Spain by Priscilla Goodwin Serra

This summer I was fortunate to spend a week in southern Spain. My husband accepted a new job this past year and immediately there was talk of travel abroad within this role. With the state of the world, we had let our passports expire but with this potential opportunity, we renewed both passports to be ready for whatever might come. Being a teacher, I can’t take extended time off whenever I want, so I was elated at the end of the school year when we found out his first trip abroad would be in June. We have 3 dogs and 4 cats, so arranging travel isn’t always easy; however, I knew I had to figure it out so I could join him on this trip. I also knew in advance this was a work trip for him, but he would have the weekend and nights free. With that said, I knew I needed to be prepared to explore with him and on my own. I quickly booked my flight and began researching Granada and the surrounding area. I also downloaded the Duolingo app and began practicing my Spanish! In high school and college, I had taken French, initially to be different from everyone else taking Spanish. Although French was interesting and fun to learn, it certainly hasn’t been as useful to know living in the United States!

While doing my research, I dug deep into all the must-do attractions and recommendations for Granada. I also made a wish list of things to do in the surrounding area. Considering my husband would be working, I knew we would have limited time to explore together so I needed to categorize and prioritize outings, decide what we’d do together, what I would do on my own, and develop a loose schedule. When traveling, I like to do my research in advance to ensure I make the most of my time away. I also work to stay flexible, because you never know when you’ll unexpectedly find a hidden gem while out and about or you might just be exhausted and need a break. I printed materials, took screenshots on my phone to refer to, and bought tickets for tours that might otherwise sell out.

Finally, the time for travel came. My husband would be in Spain for two weeks, with me joining him the second week. That meant traveling on my own all the way to Granada! This was initially a little daunting with COVID restrictions and requirements. Luckily shortly before our trip, the United States lifted the requirement of a negative COVID test to re-enter the U.S. That tidbit was stressing me considering it was another thing to figure out in a country where I barely spoke the language.

Anyway, after three flights, and many hours waiting in airports, I finally made it to Granada around 1:00 pm on a Friday. We made the most of the day, starting with some fancy gelato to cool off, followed by a self-guided tour of the Granada Cathedral. This structure, like so many in Granada, carries so much history. It was built where the Great Mosque once stood, as a symbol, that after 600 years of Muslim dominance, Granada was committed to the Catholic Monarchs. Construction of the cathedral was completed in 1704, taking 181 years to be built. The cathedral is extremely Grande and ornate, and simply unbelievable considering modern-day machinery like boom lifts and cranes did not exist. After the cathedral, we made our way through winding cobblestone streets to a restaurant, Mirador de Morayma, located in the Albayzin quarter, featuring a stunning view of the Alhambra. Later, we continued further into this ancient Moorish quarter to Mirador de San Nicolas, a popular spot where people gather to enjoy the sunset and even better views of the Alhambra. My first day in Granada was a wonderful introduction to the city I grew to love over the next week.

Saturday was the big day to tour the Alhambra, now a monument and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Spanning nearly 26 acres, construction on the Alhambra began in 1238 and the complex has evolved over the years, serving as a palatine city, Royal House, and military fortress. Notably, it is where Christopher Columbus received endorsement from Ferdinand and Isabella to sail to the New World. It is a wonderful example of both Islamic and Spanish Renaissance architecture and it is simply mesmerizing.  I read somewhere they recommend spending at least 3.5 hours there; we were there for seven. From the Islamic calligraphy to the juxtaposition of stone and wood carvings, to the gorgeous gardens with irrigation systems that run throughout as the main feature, the Alhambra is a true feast for your eyes and any ounce of history nerd in you. 

Another highlight of our trip was road tripping to Ronda on Sunday. While researching Andalusia, I came across pictures of the Puente Nuevo, a bridge completed in 1793 to cross the 390-foot-deep gorge that separates the city and it immediately became a must on our journey.  The drive to Ronda was captivating, from views of the Sierra Nevada mountains to sprawling sunflower fields to several series of massive windmills.  Arriving in Ronda, following our GPS, we drove over the Puente Nuevo, found a parking garage, and set out on foot to explore. Seeing the bridge in person and hiking down to see the waterfall below gave me perspective of the enormity of the bridge, and again, the undertaking of its construction without modern machinery! Afterward, we experienced one of our most enjoyable meals at Las Tablas Ronda. The staff was super helpful and friendly, and the food was incredibly flavorful. We started with the Tostones Pulled Pork, then went for a local specialty, Carrillada Iberian Pig, and finished with a walnut cake. By the end of the meal our taste buds were beyond happy, and we had the fuel we needed to venture on.

For much of the remainder of our trip, I explored Granada on my own during the day, then enjoyed scrumptious meals and strolls through the city at night with my husband.  I used Google maps on my phone to explore the city and tour cathedrals, monasteries, monuments, and museums, packing in as much as I could.  One day I hiked up to Sacromonte and toured the cave museum and the abbey. Both provided incredible views of the city but also gave a deeper look into the history of Granada.  The cave museum has recreations of cave homes and allows you to learn about the living conditions and trades of the people, as well as the origins of flamenco there within the Sacromonte. Within the Sacromonte Abbey, you can tour the Holy Caves and learn about the discovery of the lead books - lead plates inscribed with stories of the origin of Christianity in Granada.  On another day, I took it easy starting at the Hammam Al Andalus with a ritualistic summer massage, followed by time enjoying the Arab baths and steam room.  Afterward, I experienced a Moroccan tradition, visiting La Tetería del Bañuelo, for a pot of tea, baklava, and of course a view!  This particular tea house is directly behind El Bañuelo, the oldest and best-preserved hammam, or Arab bath, in Granada. With that, you have views of the roof of El Bañuelo, as well as the Alhambra.   

There is so much more about our trip I could share, but this is not meant to be a novel. To anyone thinking about traveling, I highly encourage you to get out and do it, whether on your own or with others. With smartphones and our current technology and connectivity, we have the resources at our fingertips to explore anywhere. I was nervous about not being able to use my phone while abroad, except when connected to free wi-fi. This was an unfounded worry! I called my cell phone provider and found out I had free texting and basic data while traveling abroad. Thus, I was able to stay connected with family back home, as well as with my husband in Spain. Also, I could use google maps, google translate, etc. to do any last-minute research and get directions on the fly!

Some parts of our trip were a whirlwind, and we were go-go-go. At other times, we were able to relax and let the experiences come to us. It was a perfect mix of exploration and relaxation. Having this time abroad really reinvigorated our love of travel and got us thinking more about the future. Back in 2016, we spent a week in Barcelona, and my husband really fell in love with that part of Spain. He quickly began talking of eventually purchasing an apartment there to be able to visit often. After spending this time in Granada and southern Spain, he began talking about an apartment in Granada, rather than Barcelona. For me, this exploration reminded me just how much more there is out there. As we revisited the conversation about an apartment abroad, I suggested we travel more before deciding on a spot. Considering this is a “down the road” dream, our current consensus is that wherever we decide, it must be somewhat centrally located so it is convenient to explore the surrounding countries! I leave you with this simple Chinese Proverb, “Don’t listen to what they say. Go see.”  You can read about these wondrous places or look at pictures and videos, but it’s just not the same. You have to experience them.

All photos courtesy of Priscilla Goodwin Serra

Photos in order of appearance in article:

1. Priscilla at her hotel at dusk

2. Granada Cathedral

3. Granada Cathedral

4. Granada Cathedral

5. Views of Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicolas

6. Alhambra

7. Alhambra

8. Alhambra

9. Alhambra

10. Alhambra Irrigation

11. Alhambra Arab architecture

12. Alhambra Arab calligraphy

13. Alhambra

14. Alhambra

15. Alhambra's mix of architecture

16. Priscilla and Carlos at the Alhambra gardens

17. Arab bath at Alhambra

18. Alhambra

19. Priscilla at Puente Nuevo

20. Puente Nuevo

21. Modern windmills in Spain

22. Sunflowers

23. View of Alhambra and Sacromonte

24. Teteria del Banuelo

25. Strolls through the city

26. Strolls and shopping

27. Near the Royal Chapel

28. Hammam Al Andalus

29. The entrance to the Holy Caves

30. In the Holy Caves

31. The Cave Museum

32. In the Holy Caves

33. Priscilla at Alhambra

34. Flamenco dancers at the Plaza Nueva

35. View of Alhambra and Granada